At the table with
James K. Polk.

THE HISTORICAL TABLE

The French dinner that sent Polk looking for ham

During a visit to New Orleans, Polk encountered elaborate French cooking and asked a servant for corn-bread and broiled ham instead. His diary account gives this preference an unusually clear voice: the traveller wanted familiar food even when something more fashionable was on offer.

The appeal lies in the pairing. Salty ham needs the quiet sweetness and texture of cornmeal bread. Make the corn pone while the ham heats, and serve the two together. It is a presidential meal that asks for a skillet rather than a banquet kitchen.